Sunday, November 22, 2009

Peter, Peter Pumpkin Eater...and the Rest of Us

It is that time of year when pumpkins are everywhere and a happy fall-loving cook's thoughts turn to that particular member of the pepo family. What you say? You don't *like* pumpkin pie? Never fear, here ideas for other pumpkin dishes for your cooking and dining pleasure. So, you've heard about this year's pumpkin national pumpkin shortage (and no, that's not the start of some dirty joke) and are worried? Go, right now, and buy as many cans of pumpkin as you think you might need this year. And then buy a couple more to make these delights year round. More Thanksgiving dishes coming soon...

Pumpkin Spice Cookies

1/2 cup butter
1 scant cup sugar
1/4 cup molasses
1 egg
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp cloves
1/4 tsp ground cardamom
2 3/4 cups flour

Cream butter and sugar. Mix in molasses and egg then beat the next 7 ingredients. Stir in flour. Drop by the teaspoonful onto a greased or parchment lined cookie sheet. Bake at 350 until they start to brown lightly, check at 10 minutes. When they are cool you can drizzle with a cinnamon and powder sugar glaze or eat plain.


Pumpkin Peanut Soup with Browned Onions

2 Tbs olive oil
2 onions, either white or yellow
1 cup smooth peanut butter
2 cups pumpkin puree
4 cups water
2 Tbs paprika
1 tsp ground nutmeg
(1-2 tsp cayenne pepper or tabasco, to taste)
2 Tbs vinegar, cider or rice
salt and pepper to taste

Peel and cut onions into small dice. Heat oil in soup pot, add onions and cook, stirring often, until they are browned. Add peanut butter and cook a minute until it begins to melt. Add pumpkin then water, stir well to get fond off the bottom of the pot. Cook 15 minutes over low heat (it should slowly simmer) then add seasonings and vinegar. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot, topped with chopped peanuts.

Wednesday, October 07, 2009

Sprouts, Shoots, and Leaves

Sprouts
Ah, much maligned, oft served badly Brussels sprouts. They are the butt of many a food joke and an easy target for food threats (as in, if you pull your sister's hair you will eat only Brussels sprouts for the rest of your life!) But done well, cooked properly, served with elan there is very little in the vegetable world that is as delicious. If you think you don't like Brussels sprouts, I beg you to try them again. But, again, I beg you DO NOT boil them or even steam them. Roast them. Saute them. Pan-sear them. Grill them. Pan-braise them. Do not make them watery, mushy, or soft. Don't even think about buying the canned ones and bypass the frozen. But do cook and eat them fresh (unless you are one of the small percentage of the population who actually cannot digest them - and you would know if you are one). Try one of the following delicious ways to cook the sprouts.

Simple Roasted Sprouts

Remove the outer (tough or bug-bitten) leaves. Cut off any woody ends. Halve the sprouts then toss with enough olive oil to lightly coat the sprouts. Sprinkle all over with coarse Kosher salt and black pepper. Put on a baking sheet and roast in a hot (425) oven. After about 10 minutes, toss on pan and roast for another 10. Take out when they are starting to brown and the edges and outer leaves look crisp. Serve hot or room temperature. Make sure to serve any leaves that fall off and brown in the cooking process - a friend of mine calls these sprout chips and makes as many as possible on purpose. Delish.
Variations: toss with Italian or sesame ginger dressing instead of olive oil; add 1-2 cloves finely minced garlic before roasting; add 1 Tbs balsamic vinegar with the oil; don't use salt, use a pinch of brown sugar instead; sprinkle with red chile flakes before cooking.

Shoots
On to pea shoots. This spring delight is back as a fall treat. This recipe takes a little effort but is totally worth it.

Green Pea Ravioli with Pea Shoots in Brown Butter

1 cup green peas (you can use frozen or fresh - DO NOT use canned)
1/2 cup ricotta cheese or crumbled firm tofu
1 clove garlic
1/4" piece of fresh garlic
1 tsp olive oil
pinch of salt
1 package wonton skins
pea shoots (as many as you have)
1/2 stick unsalted butter
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp brown sugar
1 tsp cider vinegar

for ravioli filling:
Peel the garlic. Using a spoon peel the ginger. Put the peas, ricotta or tofu, garlic, olive oil, and salt into the bowl of a food processor. Grate the ginger on a microplane grater (or the smallest holes of a regular grater) into the bowl. Process until a uniform paste is formed.
to make ravioli:
Into the middle of each wonton wrapper place a small dollop of the pea filling. Wet the edges of the wrapper and fold into a triangle or rectangle, depending on your preference. Press firmly to seal then set aside until they are all ready.
to cook everything:
When the ravioli are all ready bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Gently drop the ravioli into the pot and cook until they float. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on a plate or bowl. Meanwhile, clean and trim pea shoots. Lightly blanch in salted water (quickly drop into boiling water then remove and cool immediately in cold water then drain well.)
for brown butter:
In a small sauce pot melt the butter. Cook it on medium until it just starts to brown. Watch this carefully, you want it brown and nutty but it goes from brown to burned very quickly. When it is brown, add in sugar, salt, and vinegar. Simmer until everything is melted and mixed. Toss all the ravioli and pea shoots in the brown butter. Serve hot. Ummmmmm. Really worth it.

Leaves
Again, we welcome the return of leafy greens as the fall crops are harvested. But as the days and evenings are cooler and our thoughts turn to soups and stews instead of cold salads it is good to remember that these greens cook up nicely, too. Try this easy one pot dinner for a cold day.

Chicken-in-the-pot with Greens and Apples

1 whole cut-up chicken
4 small or 2 large onions
1-2 green apples
4 cups rough chopped greens (braising greens, kale, chard, spinach)

1 bottle or can beer
kosher salt
ground black pepper
1 tsp olive oil

Remove skin from chicken. Peel, core, and slice apples and peel and slice onions. In a large pot heat the oil then toss in the onions and apples. Cook for a minute or two then add in the greens and beer. Top with the chicken pieces, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and bring to a boil then reduce heat and simmer for an hour or so until the chicken is cooked through. You can hold this hot on low until you eat. Serve in a bowl with crusty bread for dipping.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

A Cook Without a Kitchen

It has been five weeks since we last lived at home - will be two more before we get back. So, for the moment, I am a cook without (much of) a kitchen. And a blogger without (good) internet connection. Soon I will be back to cooking and writing about food. Here are a couple thoughts about food for the moment.

1. If you thought you didn't like meatloaf, try it again. Use ground beef, lamb, chicken, turkey, or a combination. Make sure to start with good meat, you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's eat and you can't make good meatloaf with bad meat. If cost is an issue, use less meat, not worse. Season it as YOU like. Mix in grated onion, carrot, zucchini, or chopped spinach. Try using steel cut oats in a 1:3 ratio with your meat. Top the loaf with ketchup, bbq sauce, marinara sauce, thick sliced tomatoes.

2. Revisit corn on the cob. Yes, it is great just boiled and eaten plain and hot. But you can also cut it, cob and all, into chunks and add to soups and stews, take it off the cob and cook it into eggs, sauces, soups. Throw it on the grill in its husk.

3. Apples. Don't bother with red delicious, all the flavor and texture has been bred right out of them to get huge, bright, shiny red things with very little resemblance to a real apple. This time of year go for honeycrisp. They have a short season and are crunchy, sweet with a slight tang of tart, have a very apple-y flavor and nice juiciness.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

From the Kitchen of...

Ok, here are the recipes of the two veggie dishes we made at Boulder's Tuv Ha'aretz' first cooking demo. Well, at least the first demo that I did for them. It was a great success - if you are interested in joining us for the next one, let me know.

Garlic Kale with Tomatoes and Balsamic Vinegar

1 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch fresh kale
2-5 cloves garlic, depending on your taste
1 large can chopped tomatoes, drained – save the juice
1 Tbs balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
(capers)


Wash but don’t dry the kale. Rough chop it. Peel and slice garlic. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in sauté pan with a lid on medium high heat. Add garlic to the hot oil and let cook for a minute or two until aromatic but not brown. Add wet kale to pan, mix well then cover. Cook for a couple minutes, open lid, still kale, add tomatoes then cover and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring every few minutes. If the kale seems dry, add a little saved tomato juice as needed. Add the vinegar, cook uncovered for another 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add capers, if you are using them. Serve hot, either as a side dish or on top of polenta or pasta.


Chili and Brown Sugar Glazed Green Beans with Chili Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

for the beans:
1 lb fresh green beans
2 tsp olive oil
2 Tbs brown sugar
1 Tbs chili powder
1 clove garlic, crushed
½ tsp vinegar, cider or white
salt to taste

for pumpkin seeds:
½ cup raw pumpkin seeds
½ tsp olive oil
1 tsp chili powder
1 tsp brown sugar

to make the beans:
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, take the stems off the green beans. When water is boiling, drop beans in and blanch them, cooking just until they are bright green and lightly cooked. Remove from the hot water and cool quickly in very cold or ice water. In a sauté pan, heat the olive oil. Add the sugar, chili powder, and garlic. Cook until it is all hot and the sugar is starting to melt. Add the vinegar then the beans. Toss to coat. Cook a few minutes, until the beans are hot and glazed. Serve hot topped with the pumpkin seeds.Add the beans, toss to coat.
to make the pumpkin seeds:
Toss the seeds with oil then the chili and sugar. Put on a cookie sheet and bake in 400 degree oven until they start to brown. Be careful, they go from lightly brown to burned very quickly.

Enjoy and cook well. Eat well. Yeah.

Monday, August 03, 2009

Loving Cucumbers...And Fish?

Ok, another for today. Here is a recipe for a cucumber relish that goes great with the fish recipe that follows. Of course, it also goes great with pretty much any other summer meal - salad, chicken, tofu, burgers. Just try it, you'll find many uses for it.

Cucumber Lemon Relish
1 cup finely diced peeled cucumber
2 lemons
¼ cup finely diced red onion
1/8 cup finely diced fennel
2 Tablespoons chopped fennel fronds (or parsley)

1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste


Peel and supreme the lemons (remove the lemon sections without any pith) then chop the lemon segments. Add to the other ingredients, mix gently. This can hold in the fridge for several hours.

Picnic Tilapia with Cucumber Dipping Sauce

for fish:
1-2 tilapia filets per person
beaten egg
1 cup flour
2 tbs sesame seed
ground cumin
garlic powder
cayenne pepper
salt and pepper
olive oil for cooking


for dipping sauce:
½ cup mayonnaise
1 tbs finely minced cucumber
dash of toasted sesame oil
cumin, garlic, salt, pepper and cayenne to taste


for fish:
Cut each filet in half along the body line. Mix together the flour and the spices, adjusting quantity to your taste. Usually a small dash of cayenne is enough to and heat without making it too spicy. I like a lot of cumin and garlic. Put flour on flat plate. Heat a pan with enough oil to coat the bottom. Dip each filet in the egg then coat with the flour mixture then cook fish until brown on both sides. Remove to a plate or cookie sheet and refrigerate until cold. Handle the fish with care while hot as it is a tender fish; it will firm up when cold.

for sauce:
Mix all the ingredients together, adjust seasonings. Keep cold until ready to serve.

Anticipating Tomatoes...and Lamb

There is nothing that says summer quite as well as fresh, juicy, really ripe tomatoes. Red, orange, or yellow, it is the sweet, tangy juiciness that makes them so good. If you are lucky enough to have an overabundance check out the Ball Blue Book for canning tips and recipes. If you have just the right amount for eating and want to do something other than BLT sandwiches (or FLT - fakin, lettuce, and tomatoes as we eat in our house) and caprese salads, try this. The name says it all. There are no quantities here, be brave and make it how you like it.

This goes great with the next recipe, lamb kofte kebabs (sans feta, of course, for those who keep kosher.) Serve with some simple saffron rice or cous-cous and a grated carrot with cumin salad and you've got a summer meal to remember.

Oh, if you don't have heirloom tomatoes, use what you've got - but they must be *really* summer ripe ones. And if you don't like watermelon, use honeydew or casaba or galia. And if you don't eat dairy, leave out the feta and adjust your salt accordingly.

Heirloom Tomato, Watermelon and Feta Salad
with Mint and Orange Blossom Water


heirloom tomatoes
watermelon (or honeydew if you can’t get watermelon)
feta cheese
fresh mint leaves
orange blossom water
olive oil or almond oil
salt and pepper


Cut tomatoes and an equal quantity of melon into bite-sized chunks. Crumble feta into large crumbles. Chiffonade mint. Gently toss together all the ingredients, taste and adjust seasoning. This goes great with spicy dishes.

Lamb Kofte Kebabs

bamboo skewers for grilling, soaked for at least an hour
1 lb ground lamb meat (you can substitute beef, turkey, or chicken but the meat must not be too lean or it won't hold together properly)
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon paprika or smoked paprika (these days you can get this at any grocery store)
1-2 teaspoons ground toasted cumin
1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
dash of ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
several grinds of fresh black peppers
1 egg

Mix all ingredients together until everything is incorporated but avoid kneading the meat or handling excessively as it will get tough. Form into small, egg shaped meatballs and skewer. Cook on a hot grill until well done but before the meat gets hard. Turn so the balls cook evenly. Remove from heat and serve immediately. Delicious!

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Zucchini, Zucchini, Zucchini

Now is the time of year when people (and you know who you are!) start to sneak zucchini into everything. Lasagnes, enchiladas, cakes, other people's open car windows, random grocery bags, the thrift stores. Here is a delicious zucchini bread recipe that uses even the big, woody kind of the vegetable (the kind the English call marrows.) You won't need to sneak and pretend it isn't in here, it is so tasty no one will wonder.

Best Zucchini Bread Ever

for bread:
3 eggs
1 cup oil or melted butter
1 ½ cups sugar
2 cups grated zucchini
2 tsp vanilla extract
3 cups flour
3 teaspoons cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ginger
¼ teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

for topping:
½ cup brown sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon


Preheat oven to 325. Well grease either two bread pans or a baking dish. Beat with a whisk until they are frothy. Beat in oil and sugar. Stir in zucchini and vanilla. Then stir in spices, salt, baking soda and powder, then flour. Pour into pans, sprinkle with brown sugar and cinnamon. Bake 45 minutes then check with a knife. It might take as long as 60-65 minutes to bake, depending on pans.
Cool, remove from pans, cut and serve.

Variations:
-you can use grated carrot, apple, yellow squash instead of the zucchini or any combination of the four
-you can add nuts or raisins to the bread
-you can use ½ cup oil and ½ cup applesauce in place of 1 cup oil
-you can use the zest of an orange or lemon in the bread or as part of the topping
-you can substitute lemon or orange juice instead of vanilla
-you can add chopped candied ginger to the bread